Artisanal Mezcal

The following 5 steps describe the artisanal production of Corte Vetusto mezcal.

Based largely on centuries-old techniques, this is an authentically crafted spirit and a real labour of love. It takes over a month to make our small batches. There are no formulas to follow or scientific equipment to rely on. Instead, it requires patience, a watchful eye and a skilful touch.

harvesting

The agave has a significant influence on a mezcal, which is why select only the finest, most mature, agave. These cost more, but produce mezcals that are richer, more flavoursome and more complex. Armed only with a machete, the pencas (leaves) are cut away with precision, exposing the piña (heart) of the agave. The piña is then removed from the ground using a coa, a long wooden stick with a sharp, flat blade at the end. Depending on the agave species, the piña can weigh anywhere between 25-350kg! This laborious work is done early in the morning to avoid the draining heat. Once at the palenque (small distillery), the piña are weighed and then individually cut by axe into similar sized pieces, to ensure even cooking.

COOKING

Artisanal mezcal uses an horno (conical earthen pit oven) to roast the agave and convert the natural starches into fermentable sugar. Juan Carlos’s horno is lined with volcanic rocks in order to absorb and maintain heat. Regional hard woods, including mesquite, which is chosen for flavour, are placed at the centre of the oven and lit. The wood is then covered by river stones until they are white hot. A ritual is performed to ask the Gods for their blessing on the batch. The stones are then covered with a layer of bagaso (agave fibres) from a previous distillation to prevent the agave from burning and resulting in overly smoked or bitter tasting mezcal. Finally, the agave are covered with tarp and then with soil to seal the oven. Depending on the type and size of the agave, they are cooked for between 3-5 days until perfectly roasted and caramel coloured.

MILLING

Once cooled, the sweet-smelling and tender agave is chopped into small chunks by machete, to prepare it for milling. It’s then slowly crushed by a tahona (large stone milling wheel), pulled around a circular stone base by a horse called Payaso (Clown), due to the distinct markings on his face. The resultant bagaso (agave fibres) and juice are then transferred to large, open-topped wooden vats for fermentation.

FERMENTING

Once the bagaso has been loaded into the fermentation vats, water is added, which will also influence the final flavour of the mezcal. Juan Carlos is blessed with pure spring water, which runs off the mountains behind Mitla. Unlike some Mezcaleros who use cultured yeasts or accelerants to shorten this phase, Juan Carlos allows fermentation to occur naturally, initiated only by the wild airborne yeasts surrounding the palenque. These yeasts are unique to each palenque and another key factor in the taste of the final product. Depending on the season, humidity and the altitude of the palenque, this process can take anywhere from 1 – 2 weeks. The yeasts convert the sugars to alcohol, generating heat and carbon dioxide. A thick, paste-like cap forms on the surface. The process is monitored by checking the temperature and observing the bubbles that break through the paste cap. Once complete, the tepache (mash) is transferred to the still for distillation.

DISTILLING

Unlike Tequila, both the liquid and the fibres are placed in the still for maximum flavour and complexity. It is then twice distilled in small batches in wood-fired copper or clay pot stills. The choice of still influences the speed, output and flavour of the mezcal. Juan Carlos is experienced in both distilling methods and actually combines them for the Tobala and the Ensambles. This unique process marks him out as a true Maestro Mezcalero and a genuine craftsman. Knowing when and where to make the cut is the Maestro Mezcalero’s ultimate skill. By taking mezcal straight off the still, pouring it into a jicara (gourd) from a height and simply observing the size, quantity and dissipation rate of the perlas (bubbles), he is capable of determining the ABV within 1 or 2 degrees. After a period of resting, it is ready to be bottled as joven (unaged) mezcal.

Agave

Agave is derived from the ancient Greek word for ‘noble’. Known in Mexico as ‘maguey’, it has been considered a sacred plant for thousands of years. In fact, indigenous people throughout Mexico have used it for food and nourishment as well as a source to make textiles, rope and paper. There are more than 200 species of agave in the World, but over half of these are endemic to Mexico, thriving in areas with arid climates, thin soil, high temperatures and limited rainfall. Depending on the species and whether or not it is cultivated, agave can take anywhere from 6-35 years to mature. No other raw material used to make a spirit takes as long to mature. On reaching maturity the agave will sprout a tall quiote (flower stalk), which is fertilised by pollination from birds and bats so that it can reproduce and seed. Once seeded, the plant will die naturally. The quiote is cut early, so that all the energy used to create it is channelled back into the heart of the piña (heart) of the agave. However, it is essential to leave enough agave to flower and seed in order to safeguard the future of the species and the industry.

Most mezcal is made from Agave Angustifolia (Espadin), the genetic mother of the Blue Agave used in tequila, due to its high sugar content and suitability to cultivation. However, mezcal is also made from varietals like Agave Marmorata (Tepeztate), Potatorum (Tobala), Americana (Arroqueño, Coyote, Sierra Negra) and Karwinskii (Bicuixe, Madrecuixe). Each of these agave have distinct features and flavour profiles. Traditionally artisanal mezcal was made from a blend of wild agave, known as an Ensamble, based on what was available locally and mature at the time. Now, however, you will find expressions of the individual agave varietals.

Terroir

Terroir is a term from the French word ‘terre’, which translates literally to ‘earth’ or ‘land.’ It is generally understood to refer to the combination of all environmental factors, such as soil, climate and aspect, which gives a product its distinctive character. The term is used extensively in the world of wine, but given the notable maturity times of agave, the impact of terroir is significant and it provides mezcal with a dramatic reflection of place.

What is Mezcal?

Mezcal is the oldest distilled spirit in the Americas, dating back some 500 years. The word mezcal comes from the Náhuatl words metl (maguey / agave) and ixcalli (cooked) and is the term used for any distilled spirit made from agave.

Tequila, therefore, is a mezcal. In fact, it was first known as Vino de mezcal de Tequila (wine of mezcal from Tequila). However, tequila can only be made from Agave Tequilana Weber (Blue Agave). By contrast, mezcal can be made from between 35-40 agave species, giving it far greater breadth and variety of flavour.

The success of tequila has seen intensive cultivation of the Blue Agave. The resulting monoculture has made it more prone to disease. Most tequila is also made in large factories, using highly industrial processes like shredders, autoclaves and even diffusers, homogenising the flavour too. By law it is only required to contain 51% agave sugars.

By contrast, Artisanal mezcal is made from 100% agave in small batches, according to time-honoured methods. Making it is a skill that’s passed down from generation to generation, like a closely guarded recipe. Mezcal has been at the heart of notable events within the indigenous communities for centuries, from births and weddings, to funerals and other spiritual events. As a result, Mexicans consider mezcal part of their cultural heritage and a source of tremendous family pride. As the popular saying goes: “Para todo mal mezcal, para todo bien tambien”

DENOMINATION OF ORIGIN (DO)

The concept of a DO originated in France, based on the belief that the cultural attributes and terroir of a particular place directly influence the food or drink produced there and that deserves to be protected, e.g. Champagne, Comte. DOs can now be found across the World, with both Tequila and Mezcal protected by DO status. Mezcal has been, and continues to be, made across Mexico, but there are currently 9 States (Oaxaca, Guerrero, Puebla, Michoacan, Guanajuato, San Luis Potosi, Zacatecas, Durango, Tamauilipas) within the official DO, established in 1995. Only they can legally call their agave distillate mezcal. Those outside the DO must use the term ‘destilado de agave’. Over 90% of mezcal is produced in Oaxaca, making it the undisputed epicentre of the mezcal world.